Tumbleweed Tales from the SouthWest

Hasta La Proxima Vez - Until Next Time

2006-02-08T12:35:00.000-08:00

The time has come to leave this corner of the world. In such a short time, we became a part of the small community here. Despite trying to stay neutral, I can't help but feel certain ways about the situation down here. In two words: It's complicated. I always knew that people came into this country illegally, but I never truly understood what this entailed until I saw it face to face and actually talked with these people and got a glimpse of the difficult journey they endure. I gained a certain appreciation for my own life and an increased sympathy for those not as fortunate as I. I can't blame people for wanting more from their life. If I lived in a country that oppressed my ability to care for myself and my family, I would most likely go somewhere else as well. At the same time, I hate that we are so driven by the mighty dollar to risk our life and separate from our family to achieve this perceived goal of economic freedom. The people I encountered were in search of work. If at first they did not succeed in crossing into the U.S, they undoubtedly would try over and over again until they did. I had to wonder…is it all worth it? Could a life living in the shadows and working crappy jobs that most Americans don’t want to do anyway really be that appealing? However, with 45 million Mexicans living in extreme poverty, the prospect of making even $4 an hour must be sweet. I fear what will happen in the future. Immigration is becoming a very hot topic in government circles and the current administration now positions people coming into this country over unsecured borders as a threat to national security. It is not long before undocumented worker will become synonymous with potential terrorist. If all goes as proposed, billions and billions of tax dollars will be spent building a massive fence along the U.S.-Mexico border. And, anyone crossing the border illegally could end up in jail with a felony on their hands. Down in New Mexico/Mexico, the prospect of a fence was often likened to the Berlin Wall and viewed as a waste of money. As always, there is the other side of the coin. Are there even enough jobs to go around sustaining such a massive influx of migrants? Aren’t there enough people in this country as it is? Would a guest worker program really minimize illegal crossings as suggested or will it only prove to people that the opportunity in this country is very real? Is there anything the Mexican government can do to keep their citizens from wanting to leave? What incentive does the Mexican government have to stop the migration when a good portion of the money made in the U.S. eventually ends up back in Mexico and in return fuels its economy. Like I said, it’s complicated. I could go on forever. So, moving on.

I literally rode off into the sunrise to catch a plane out of El Paso content not to see or eat Mexican food for awhile. Don’t get me wrong the food was dee-lish, but I’m cool for now. As a side note, it apparently isn't that strange to carry cow skulls onto the plane. The security in the El Paso airport didn't even bat an eye as I sent a cow skull with horns and all through the x-ray machine. Just in case anyone was wondering.

Until next time, this is Jalapeña no longer on the border signing off and stepping down from the soapbox.

It's a Cowboy's Life

2006-02-07T11:32:00.000-08:00

We interviewed a local rancher that grew up in the Columbus/Deming area. He gave us a glimpse into a day in his life. He has a small herd of free range cattle which graze on land he leases from the BLM. As supplemental income, he also breaks horses for other ranchers in the area. As we interviewed him outside his empty corrals, his small herd came walking up as if on cue. When we entered the corral, some of the cows ran and subsequently got separated from their calf. We had to manage the interview over the noise of the cows mooing to each other in anxiety over the separation. We got to see him rope a few of the calves as he would if they were being branded. This is a skill I marvel at, but I have to say I squirmed a bit to see the calf dragged across the ground by the rope. The ranching community is strong down here on both sides of the border. There is camaraderie among the ranchers in the area. Cows have been known to stray and sometimes cross the border and ranchers from both sides will hold them and get word to the owners so they can come and drive them back closer to home. He said he knew he wanted to spend his life on a horse. Despite his parent's dismay, he has dedicated his life to being a cowboy. He commented that in school he doodled horses and cowboys roping. I don't remember my doodles in school having that much meaning for my life.

I think we were all a little enamored after the interview of a life so simple and sweet. He really loves what he does and had such a positive outlook on life. We tried hard not to think about our impending return to the City as we sipped beer in the back of a pickup under the Southwest sun.

Cows separated from their calves and not very happy with our presence.

I got to horseback ride, which was awesome. In the past year, I've had this strange craving to ride horses. I was thrown off when I was about 10 years old and for many years I had a fear of riding them. But, there was no fear left. I hopped on Bubbles like no time had passed since I had been on a horse. Bubbles is pregnant with her twelfth calf! But, by the way she took off, you couldn't have guessed.

Back to Kindergarten

2006-02-07T09:52:00.000-08:00

We visited a Kindergarten class in Palomas, Mexico. As an excercise, the teacher had each student go up to the chalkboard and write their name. They had to stand on a little to chair to reach, but these four and five-year olds all wrote their name on the board. One little boy impressed us all when he voluntarily helped another little girl get a chair when she came in late to class. Who says chivalry is dead! They all lit up when I brought out my camera and started taking pictures. When I showed them that they could see the picture that was just taken, they were hooked. They would tell me who or what I should take a picture of and no sooner than I had taken the picture, I was swallowed up by a sea of munchkins trying to get a glimpse of the little LCD screen. The kids would all say to me, "A ver. A ver." Let's see! Let's see! They were adorable. I wanted to take them all home with me.....all nineteen of them.

School

2006-02-06T11:17:00.000-08:00

New Mexico is the only state along the border that opens up their school system to kids from Mexico. Hundreds of students a day get bussed from the port of entry on the border to schools in Deming, New Mexico. This has been going on here for as long as people can remember. In Mexico, schools are very expensive. Being able to attend a U.S. public school is a huge opportunity for kids that grow up in Palomas. They learn English and get a U.S. education. From what I have been told, these kids recognize the gift. They work extremely hard and it is not uncommon for them to be among the students with the highest grades, even valedictorian.

I took these photos at the port of entry while waiting to go through U.S. customs. Parents of kids wait at the border to pick meet their kids when they are dropped off.

A Walk in Their Shoes

2006-02-03T12:19:00.000-08:00

On Wednesday, we spent eleven hours with Grupos BETA, a Mexican-government sponsored organization that operate in several cities and towns across Mexico to aid migrants in need and to inform them of their human rights. Grupos BETA established an official office in Palomas about 7.5 months ago. For twelve hours a day, the six members of Grupos BETA travel the route common for migrants and talk to them, take down their names and origin for a list used in the event that something happens, pass out pamphlets on safety and human rights and assist anyone in need of food, water or medical attention. Alex Esquinca was our main guide. We originally met him on a migrant bus. He passed out information to us without question or discrimination even though later admitted we didn't exactly fit the description of the typical passenger. I have met few people as proud as he of the work he does. He was inspiring in his passion and eagerness to share with us all the challenges and rewards of his work.

Grupos BETA gave us a tour of this route that most migrants take when crossing from Las Chepas. Las Chepas is about a half hour drive from Palomas. It is a small village that was basically on its way to a slow extinction. Once a farming community, the families that once lived there are now only survived by its oldest members. There is a school there, but it is closed because there are no longer any children living in the village. As children grew up, they left Las Chepas and no one new is moving in.

The school with no children.

But, each day hundreds of people stop in the Las Chepas before leaving Mexico and attempting to enter the U.S. After the bus from Palomas drops people off in Las Chepas, people spend the remaining daylight hours there. We spoke with one couple that has lived in Las Chepas for thirty-five years. Their door is always open to anyone passing through. They have blankets, sheets, candy, drinks and tea to offer. When we knocked on the door to the little house, we were immediately ushered in and offered sodas and a chair. The hospitality was overwhelming and it was hard to say no to these extremely generous people. Although Las Chepas faces the U.S., there is a road that leads from the back of the town, passes the town cemetery, and winds through a mountain corridor towards a part of the border that is not as patrolled.

Above the village cemetery. The cemetery has more people buried there than the current population of Las Chepas.

Along the road, we were taken to a spot where an altar honoring La Virgen de Guadlaupe is and where migrants come and light a candle and pray before embarking on their journey. Candles on the altar were still lit from the night before. The area around the altar was piled of broken and discarded candles. A box of medicine was found on the altar with a couple of phone numbers written on it, presumably left as a message to someone.

Further down the road, we stopped at a memorial where a man was shot by a bandit while driving fifteen migrants to the border. We learned that the mountain corridor at night is often plagued with border bandits that wait high up in the mountain with guns to rob the migrants as they pass by. I was disgusted to hear how common this type of robbery was, but even more disgusted when we told that some of the bandits may be American, as well as Mexican.

Moving further down the road, we were taken to a lake with a shady spot under a solitary tree that is about two kilometers from the actual border. The rare shade is a popular resting spot for migrants as they wait for night to fall and begin the long miles of walking they have ahead of them. Sometimes people will drink water from the lake and as a result end up sick. We then continued onto the border, where a white monument and a short barbed wire fence marks the division. This particular section is chosen as the best place to enter because there is a small hill blocking the view of the U.S. Border Patrol cameras. Once in the U.S., the length of the journey depends on arrangements made with a coyote and the success of not being detected by U.S. patrols. If successful, we were told that the typical journey is three days and three nights. People travel by night through the desert avoiding roads and lights at all costs. Daytime is spent resting and hiding in bushes.

Cat, production manager, Alex from Grupos BETA and Me at the border

State of Emergency

2006-02-03T10:25:00.000-08:00

In August 2005, the Governor of New Mexico declared a state of emergency in the three counties in which the state lines of New Mexico border Mexico. Up until this point, New Mexico had never been a major crossing point for immigrants or drug smuggling. But, as patrols have become increasingly tighter in other areas along the border, such as Tucson, Arizona, the Palomas/Columbus area became a quieter and easier place to smuggle people and drugs. In the Tucson area the number of agents patrolling the border region was reported to be 2,000 compared the 100 agents in the Deming/Columbus area. This shift in migration points is very apparent from everyone we have talked to on both sides of the border. It is hard to say when it actually started but the noticeable increase is as recent as the last year or two. Even now one could see the appeal of the region and why it was a good choice on the part of the would-be migrants and the smugglers. The police station in Columbus is tiny and closed at night. In Palomas, it is not much bigger and they only have five officers on duty at any given time. Declaring a state of emergency has unlocked millions of dollars, which are now being put towards increasing the number of agents, putting up long-range cameras all along the border, as well as other technology used to patrol the border.

The issue of border security has reached the Federal level and legislation has been proposed to build a fence along the entire U.S.-Mexico border and to make entering the U.S. without proper paperwork a felony. I believe that the House of Representatives has already approved 700 miles of fence to be built along the 2,000-mile border. There are already fences up in high traffic areas, such as California. Border security and preventing illegal immigration is gaining much momentum now as the issue is now presented as one of national security and anti-terrorism, whereas in years past it was viewed as more of an economic issue.

Sunset

2006-02-01T07:40:00.000-08:00

Film Production Blog

2006-01-31T10:22:00.000-08:00

There is another blog that we are posting to as well. This one focuses on the the daily production of the film. So, if you just can't get enough for some strange reason, check it out!

http://borderlandfilm.blogspot.com/

Coyotes

2006-01-30T09:28:00.000-08:00

Coyotes are in abundance down here. I'm not talking about the animal when speaking of coyotes. A coyote or "pollero" is the term used when talking about a human smuggler. Human smuggling is a multi-million dollar business along the 2,000 miles of border that Mexico and the US share. For an average of $1,500, coyotes assist migrants in crossing the border into the U.S. illegally. They arrange a launching point, carved out trails, a guide to walk with them, decoys to throw off border patrol and travel arrangements and contacts on the U.S. side. Mexicans save for years and then travel North from their hometown to meet with a coyote and hope for a successful crossing. They are in such abundance here that I've met a few personally and had other well-known coyotes pointed out to me. Considering there are hundreds upon hundreds of people wishing to cross in Palomas, business is good for the coyotes.

A Dangerous Journey

Despite the help of coyotes, the crossing can still be very dangerous. As controls have become increasingly tighter in California, migration has moved to more remote locations, like the Arizona desert and the New Mexico desert. An increasing number of would-be immigrants are found dead along the border. In 2005, over 450 bodies were found. The cause of death was a combination of traveling long distances in extreme weather conditions, without much food or water and also becoming lost in the desert. There is a Mexican government-sponsored agency that operates in several towns and cities where border hopping is prevalent and their main goal is to reduce the number of deaths, inform people of their rights on either side of the border and help out any migrant in need. We first met them on our bus ride to Las Chepas, when they stopped the bus to talk to everyone. They handed us these pamphlets, which give advice on how to stay safe.

Here are some pictures from the pamphlet.

In the desert, avoid separating from your partners, especially if they are woman or children.

If you are stopped by any Mexican or American authority, do not run nor try to take anything out of your clothes and put your hands out in front.

Try to carry with you a flashlight and matches.

Avoid crossing rivers or walking by the riverbed. In a matter of minutes the level of water could rise and drag you in.

When you decide to rest, check the place and move objects where you plan to sit or sleep; like rocks, sticks, shrubs. Poisonous animals exist there, like scorpions, spiders, snakes and others.

If you are lost in the desert or you can't continue, stay together and make a smoky bonfire because it will be much easier for you to be located and rescued.

When you board a vehicle, make sure the woman and children sit in the front cabin.

Never allow them to transport you in a truck without ventilation, because you can dehydrate or suffocate.

If the driver of the vehicle is driving too fast, ask them to drive slower and to be careful not too put your life in danger.

The Architecture of Columbus

2006-01-28T10:38:00.000-08:00

Here are a few pictures of some of the architecture in Columbus, New Mexico. The picture of the water tower is taken from a lookout point at Pancho Villa State Park and Columbus is in the background.

Above right is "downtown" Columbus. The small blue building on the right is the police station, with the Patio Cafe to the left, the Tumbleweed Theatre and the Chamber of Commerce. Traffic in downtown is about always the same as seen in this picture.

Above is City Hall and the courthouse. Inside the courtyard is where the purified water station is located.

This set of buildings are some of the remaining architecture from the early days of Columbus. We often eat in the Las Casitas restaurant here which is middle right.

This is Martha's Place, the B&B where we are staying. Each room has access to the balcony. The front balcony overlooks the desert and Palomas, Mexico.

Agua Purificado

2006-01-28T07:43:00.000-08:00

In Columbus, New Mexico it is not recommended to drink the water. It is jam packed with flouride and tastes terrible. I have read, that the quality of water along the border is often a problem. In lieu of not being able to use tap water here, you will find the community at the pictured water station. This colorful faucet, directly outside the city hall, despenses purified water. When you pass by you often see people with several empty bottles coming by to fill up.

Pancho Villa

2006-01-25T21:02:00.000-08:00

Columbus, New Mexico made its way permanently into history books on March 9, 1916. In the wee hours of the morning Francisco "Pancho" Villa and 1,500 of his villistas raided the town of Columbus, making this town the last place a foreign government successfully invaded the continental United States. They stole several horses and mules, killed civilians and U.S. military and burned down much of the town. 500 Villistas were killed in the raid. In response to the attack, the U.S. Army sent in 12,000 troops under Gen. "Blackjack" Pershing to seek out and kill Pancho Villa. Gen. Pershing and his army would spend the better part of a year searching for Pancho Villa in Mexico. Despite the large force and the use of combat airplanes (a first for the U.S. Army at this time), Pancho Villa was never captured by the United States.

Pancho Villa began his career as a bandit at age 16. After killing a rich hacienda owner who was trying to rape his younger sister, he escaped on horseback and spent the next several years as a bandit on the run, who successfully evaded the authorities. In 1910, Francisco Madero turned him onto politics and recruited Villa to the beginnings of the Mexican Revolution. Villa made the transition from bandido to revolutionary. With the help of the U.S., Madero and the revolutionaries were able to overthrow Porfirio Diaz who had ruled the country for 34 years. Five years later, it would again be the U.S. support for a different presidential candidate, Carranza and his regime, that would lead Villa to invading Columbus.

Pancho Villa seems to be highly regarded on both sides of the border, especially among the Mexican community. In Columbus, there is a state park, a restaurant, and a bar/cafe named after him. Considering there is not much else here, that is quite a lot of businesses with the name Pancho Villa.

Each year around March 9, a giant celebration happens on both sides of the border in honor of the day Pancho Villa raided and looted Columbus. In the next few weeks, men and woman on horseback will begin a 300-kilometer ride from the interior of Mexico to Columbus, New Mexico. They carry only what they need to eat and sleep under the stars along the way. I am told that this year will be especially impressive and they expect the number of riders to reach 1,000. The riders will barrel through the border and into Columbus reenacting Pancho VIlla's raid on horseback 90 years ago. I wish I could be here to see it! After the riders reach Columbus, the fiesta grande will begin!

Taken at the Pancho Villa State Park in Columbus, New Mexico

Las Chepas

2006-01-23T22:19:00.000-08:00

We traveled by bus to Las Chepas, Mexico today. From the main square of Palomas, several school buses a day leave taking people to Las Chepas, which has become a well-known staging area for attempting to cross the border. The buses quickly fill up with people that to the innocent observer may think are taking a day trip to visit family. But, really they are in for the adventure of a lifetime and looking to leave their country and make the United States their new home. They are traveling to the last stop before making a run for the border. They carry very little with them, only a small bag, some water and snacks. Most are dressed warmly because they will undoubtedly spend several hours in the elements where temperatures easily dip into the 20’s at night. It took me awhile to realize the extent of what was happening before me. Our initial goal was to try to get permission to film on the bus, but I innocently thought that maybe people were going to Las Chepas for other reasons than hopping the border. But, as we talked to the bus drivers and people on the bus, it was clear that this was not the case. It took a lot of coercing for them to let us on the bus. The passengers on the bus eyed us wearily and with a touch of fear. It finally hit me after sitting on the bus for awhile waiting for word of departure and I got the chance to get a good look at the passengers. One girl in her early twenties sitting in the seat behind me grasped a bag with a blanket folded over the top. Her brother and his wife carried small backpacks as well with bottles of Gatorade stuffed in the side pockets. It was true. They had everything they needed to travel lightly in unpredictable circumstances. They carried on them all the possessions that they might need to start a new life in a new country. They had every intention of leaving Mexico and entering the United States illegally this very night. We ended up having to get off that bus and get on another bus because that one was going to be too full. The next bus was the same story. There were couples and young men all bundled up in warm clothes. As we rode for thirty minutes to the destination, I was overwhelmed with all sorts of emotions. One of the moments I remember most vividly is when we pulled out of Palomas and got the first full few of the border and the U.S. Nearly everyone on the bus looked out across the desert, eyeing their destination, their journey. Many said prayers in this same moment and touch the loved one next to them. I met many of them trying to break the ice and hear their story. Many understandably did not want to talk with us. In the end, we did not film anyone. But, I did have some conversations with people that will last with me for awhile. One man who I talked with named Augustine told me tonight was going to be his fourth time attempting to cross. Each time before he was caught. He spoke to me while his three buddies urged him to stop talking. This small group had no backpacks. Only groceries just bought at the store. They carried a shopping bag full of chips, several cans of refried beans and several one-gallon jugs of water. That is it. Then about fifteen minutes into the ride, we were pulled over by an orange truck that had police lights on top and Migracion (Migration) written on the side. I was worried. But, most people of the bus didn’t seem to be. Two uniformed men boarded the bus and began handing out pamphlets. What was in the pamphlets? There was advice on how to stay safe while migrating. What to do if lost in the desert. There was a reminder to bring food and water. And, there was a reminder not to get into the backs of vehicles that do not have ventilation. It advised people to put their hands up and not run if caught. The men advised everyone on the bus to carry water and dress warmly. Then they took down names on a voluntary basis to have on file in the event that something happens. Several people gave their names, age and place they come from freely to these two men. I was fascinated. This agency’s goal was to inform people of their human rights in an effort to minimize the loss of people’s lives.

Overall, the day was eye-opening, fascinating and draining all in the same go. As I get ready to sleep, I can’t help but wonder about the people I met today. Where are they right now? Are they hiding in a bush somewhere? Have they already been caught by the border control? Are they tired and pushing onward in the local mountain range just a few miles from where I am now? Did a lifelong dream possibly get realized tonight and they are in a safe house on the U.S. side of la frontera (the border)? This I will never know, but one thing is for sure, I will never forget the faces of the people I met today.

This stone monument marks the border of Mexico and the United States near Las Chepas

Minuteman

2006-01-22T22:29:00.000-08:00

The Minuteman Civil Defense Corps are a group of civilians that, being very dissatisfied with the government’s job of maintaining and controlling our borders, have decided to take on some of these duties on their own. They have garnered national publicity in the past few months as they have literally camped themselves along various parts of the U.S.-Mexico border in an effort to catch illegal aliens crossing into the U.S. and send them back without they themselves breaking the law.

As it turns, the Minutemen had an expedition planned for this past weekend in Columbus, New Mexico. Two of them ended up staying in our B&B. So, we made friends and the film crew was able to accompany the Minutemen on their border patrol last night. They caught eighteen illegals attempting to cross the border. The Minutemen started their expedition early in the day looking for tracks and popular paths that are traveled by illegals. After finding thousands of tracks in the day, the group separated out and patrolled various parts of a mountain range in between Columbus and Demming, New Mexico. The stakeout lasted for many hours and it wasn’t until almost midnight that movement was detected. The group of eighteen illegal immigrants made it past the border control and almost made it past the Minutemen. But, when they saw the Minutemen’s lights, the immigrants surrendered easily without much of a fight. The immigrants were men, women and teenagers, some kids thought to be about twelve or thirteen years old. They completely cooperated with the Minutemen and gathered together in a circle once caught. It is hard to say whether or not this was the first attempt for these people or if they had been caught before. Because, once caught either by Minutemen or U.S. border control, the border control processes the people, gives them a meal and then drops them back on the Mexico side of the border. Upon catching this group last night, the Minutemen alerted the official U.S. border control and waited for them to arrive. They gave them water while they waited and let them warm themselves by a fire. There is absolutely no contact between the Minutemen and the people they catch and they operate in a non-violent manner and cooperate with the official border control agents.

The Minutemen are a very interesting group. They are extremely conservative, yet anti-government at the same time. They feel their government is failing them in protecting the borders of this country, so are taking things into their own hands.

Pathetic produce sections

2006-01-22T10:13:00.000-08:00

As I am all too familiar with in very small towns in the middle of nowhere, fresh produce is very hard to come by. I took the following pictures in the local General store here in Columbus. Pretty pathetic. As you can see, the most readily available produce is actually lard. Big turquoise boxes and buckets of it. The produce they did have was in a very sad state. I already miss being able to have a nice salad!

Arrival to New Mexico

2006-01-22T08:50:00.000-08:00

My recent adventures take me to the SouthWest, a region of the United States I have longed to visit for a very long time. The town I am in is Columbus, New Mexico, a tiny border town about one hour West of El Paso. I am here to help with production on a feature length documentary film on life in these two towns that share an international border in common. I couldn’t help but be reminded of Nevada on my drive into Columbus from El Paso. Rock art lined the two-lane highway. A vastness spread as far as the eye can see. I was warned that if you blink you may miss the town. But, as the town came into view, it seemed much larger than everyone had said. Clearly, this was an oasis-like vision on the part of a weary traveler. Because, once inside the village, I realize that this town isn’t nearly what it seemed from a distance. It does have a ghost town-ish quality to it and I can see why the town made a listing on ghosttowns.com. A few old buildings from the 1900’s mixed in with dilapidated trailers and a few other more modern buildings make up this little village. It is not too unlike Gerlach, Nevada, although a bit more spread out. It has the usual desert small town amenities like a General Store, a gas station, a very large bar, two restaurants that close extremely early on Sat night and a church. There is a small theatre here called the Tumbleweed Theatre. How appropiate! The census stats record a population of approx. 1,700. But, locals say there are more like 500 people living here. We are staying with the Mayor and Judge of the town in their house, which is converted into a very charming B&B. For breakfast each morning we get a different version of huevos a la Mexicana, which are all divine! The mayor is also a local real estate agent and notary public. Her husband, as well as being the town judge, is assistant fire chief, buys and sells cars and sells real estate.

On the first night here, we went into Mexico for dinner, which is about three miles away. The border crossing in Columbus is the only 24-hour crossing along the whole U.S.-Mexico border. After a short drive to the crossing, we parked on the U.S. side and walked into Mexico. Immediately upon passing the crossing, you can feel the vast differences between these neighboring towns. Palomas, Mexico is a much more lively and bustling town. Cars filled the streets, some with bumping music. People crowded the sidewalks. A ghost town Palomas is not. The smell of grilled onions and peppers meshed with the diesel-fumed air. Bacon-wrapped hot dogs could be seen grilling on nearly every corner. Yum! We finally found the restaurant that was recommended to us and I think we were all glad we did. From grilled chicken to bull meat sandwiches to fresh guacamole and salsa, our meal was fantastic.

The red peppers are hung to keep away evil spirits. I love the pretty welcome sign on the jail.